deep down in the bottom of that third coast.

From the moment we entered the acadian country of Louisiana, (areas influenced by french colonial settlers) to the moment we left the gastronomy of our trip and maybe even our lives changed forever. Our first full dinner in Louisiana took place at Greens, Beans, and Cornbread an establishment in the town of DeRidder. We had this place recommended to us by some fellow bike tourist who we met in the middle of Texas. The recommendation however did not include the name or location, only the promise of "best yams of my life". So after investigating other uninspired looking dinners and looking rather lost and hungry we were pointed in the right direction by a local. Upon entry we were asked if we wanted fast food or food food. Food food seemed the obvious choice and the very kind proprietor insisted we would be taken care of. When the cafeteria plates arrived brimming with collard greens, mac and cheese, candied yams, cornbread, and hamburger steaks swimming in gravy eyes grew wide, focused silent indulgence began, and satisfaction which could only be gained from food that full of soul reined supreme. A few individual serving sweet potato pies were the perfect conclusion of a perfect down home meal. Our obvious joy even earned us some to go pies.
While at the DeRidder public library I was flipping through a local publication which in this particular issue was rating Acadian country's best meals and in particular Boudin, (a rice, pork, and liver filled sausage). The next day and 70 miles later I recognized a name that I had seen in the magazine; the rather unforgettable T-boys slaughter house. A dollar and change was all it took to get our hands on the savoury links. Like true Yankees we enjoyed them whole on day old white bread in the parking lot. We later learned you don't eat the casing and instead pull the filling out and eat it with crackers or all on its own. Pulling out of T-boys refueled by the boudin we rode through the rice fields till sundown arriving in the town of Opelousas. In search of a grocery store we came across a Christmas light celebration in the town park. The town welcoming committee invited us to indulge in the free red beans and rice and hot coco and we did so with vigor. After this we met with the mayor and he set us up with a place to stay in a historic chapel.
Two days and around 180 miles later found us in New Orleans. Three things happened in the big easy I will never forget; beignets, muffaleta, and mud bugs. Cafe Du Monde has been pumping out little powdered sugar coated doughnuts 24 hours a day for over a century and there's a reason. Go there. The central grocery down the block invented a sandwich called the muffaleta over a century ago and has had a line every day since. Go there. Big Fishermens on magazine street provides whole sale and individual orders of local sea food. Crayfish is the only hot food they serve. Go there. Louisiana and New Orleans is a whole sub culture of food, people, and music unlike any other. Imagine the best of Paris right on one of the most productive coasts in the world and trapped in a swamp for a few hundred years. Go there.


MBHB